So, it´s been a pretty crazy few weeks since my last post, as such there´s a lot to cover and a lot that will inevitably get skipped/forgotten/condensed. Also, you'll have to pardon the occasional accent being used as an apostrophe - I'm useless with European keyboards, but getting over it. Still better than no contractions whatsoever, I figure. Also, I´m in an internet bar right now, so things will have to be expanded on when I have more time.
Agenda:
(1) Marrakech
(2) Holidays
(3) Barcelona (so far)
I further regret to inform you (although this may not actually be disappointing) that Hogmanay brought on a new year at the cost of one (1) camera, memory card included. Since I was a lazy bum after exams, then my trip, then Christmas, nothing had been uploaded. So there will be no photographic accompaniments to items 1, 2 (or 3 for that matter ... forthcoming, though). No matter. Onwards!
1. Marrakech
Really, I'm not nearly clever enough to sum up how excellently bizarre my time in Morocco was. Really enjoyed it, although it was bloody exhausting. If you ever go, I recommend mixing up your traveling party, if only for a half hour here and there. The trip was completely different when I was traveling alone than the times I spent with people I met at the hostel (fantastic place to stay, by the way, and cheap - Riad Massin). Being a white woman traveling alone gets you a lot of attention, which is mostly friendly, at first novel, and then entirely taxing and unwanted within the first km of walking. It's hard for me to be rude, but I learned pretty quickly it was the only way to make it from A to B without being harassed incessantly. This stopped entirely when I was traveling with others, and started within 20m walk when we parted ways. Interesting, but tiring.
Things to do? Endless really. I enjoyed the souks, but the constant haggling was pretty tiring. Learned after the fact that you should never stop to look at anything unless you intend to buy it, you should walk away before upping your offer, and you should probably not even bother shopping on the weekend. Less tourists during the week makes for better deals. Saw the most incredible architecture at every turn. I couldn't get over how much time and effort was put into elaborately decorating, tiling and carving even the most decrepit and mundane buildings. Make sure to check out the Musee de Marrakech and the Ben Youssef Qu'ran school - they're part of a trio of sites for a 60 dirham ticket that's worth every penny. The museum isn't outstanding, collection-wise, but the building is magnificent in its own right. The dyers' souk is another spot on most top tens for Marrakech, and deservingly so. I was there on a slow day and not much was hanging out to dry, but for 10 dirham I got to go up on a rooftop for a nonetheless spectacular view.
Finally, if you make it to Morocco, make sure to go to the hammam, the public baths. It´s a pretty intimidating experience if you've never been, are super white (practically reflective, in my case), or (for some) are North American and therefore probably not used to being naked around others. Despite all that, it´s completely worth getting over the stares you'll get. One of the women at the Riad took a couple of us for what worked out to about ten quid, and you leave feeling literally squeaky clean. I'm planning on a more detailed post about hammams eventually, since there's a scarcity of useful information for western first-timers hoping to try it out. Main thesis: pay someone to take you, it's cheap and much better than trying to do it yourself (you really need a buddy anyways).
I met some fantastic people at the Riad as well. I strongly prefer the layout of the hostel to others I've stayed in. Riads in general are not really designed for hotel-type privacy; in fact, they're pretty much made for socializing. This made it really easy to get to know everyone else staying there and to find someone else thinking about dinner or the always elusive beer. Again, if you go to Marrakech, definitely stay at Riad Massin. They charge less than €10 a night, and someone will give you a full orientation of the city, haggling, sights to see and life in Morocco when you arrive. The staff are incredibly friendly and wealth of advice, whether it's how to cook a good tagine or how much you should expect to pay for a teapot.
All in all, great time. I'm planning on going again closer to the summer when I have more time to see the Sahara and go to the coastal towns.
2. Holidays
Much shorter and rambling section here. Got horribly ill with some kind of stomach virus, which was crap since it coincided perfectly with my family's visit. Nonetheless had a great time with my mom and sister. Christmas day was madness with fifteen people, including three very cute but very noisy babies. But family is what makes Christmas for me, so I was happy to be surrounded by typical Wilson holiday chaos. Made me miss home a bit. Dean arrived the following afternoon, and we all did some more Edinburgh touring. The four of us spent a day in Glasgow before the famjam flew back to Canada. Dean and I stayed on an extra day, did some more shopping and lazed around for the most part. All went by far to quickly for my liking.
This brings us to the most dreaded New Year's Eve ... Oh, how I hate New Year's. Terrible. Just my least favourite holiday, really. Always over-hyped, too crowded, overpriced, too drunk and generally a big fat disappointment. My only requirements ever for this dreaded night are to be around good friends and/or family and within arm's reach of alcohol at least 80% of the time. Pretty sure I managed both, which made for an overall ok night. We all had a laugh over pre-bevs and the fireworks were fantastic. All in all, no major complaints. (Things did take a turn for the worse somewhere between the loss of said camera and being called a bigot by some drunk guys because I don't like the Pope). So in summary, in terms of New Year's, it pales in comparison to BBC Pride and Prejudice with Soixante-Cinqs and S. Raskas.
Top Tip: I know Edinburgh is renowned for Hogmanay - which is fair enough - but if you're not really into huge crowds and twenty minute lines for both booze and toilets, then I'd skip buying a ticket for the street party. If there were bands playing I was really stoked to see, I'd go again. But I was pretty much only interested in the fireworks and could have seen them from the other side of the barrier without paying the fifteen pounds. Oh well, live and learn.
3. Barcelona
I have nothing to say at the moment, since I've only been here a day and haven't hit my must-sees yet (leaving them for early tomorrow when I won't need a lie-in like today ... line-ups for the Sagrada Familia were around the block!) What I will say, however, is that I have found the yarn shop to end all yarn shops. For you Edinburgh knitters, imagine K2, minus the pretension and the mark-up. Very cute, owned by an anglo (which was useful), plus - this is the important part - their business card doubles as a needle gauge. Fantastic! It's called All You Knit is Love. Go. Another two days here, then on the 6th I'm headed to Lisbon. I'll fill you in.
All right, that's me done. As usual, pretty rambling and incoherent. I promise something a little more high-qual when I return. The new year is looking incredibly busy (return on first day of class, reunited with the magnificent L. Riggs five days later for a six day visit, host Dean for 2-3 weeks ten days after that, and then Dublin for St Pat's not long after). 2011, bring on the awesome.
Cheers.
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